TradeBase Buying Guide

Sliding door rollers & carriages — find your exact replacement

170+ rollers, carriages, trolleys, cassettes and guides — 8 kg wardrobe wheels through to 225 kg commercial quad assemblies. Match by door type, by wheel profile, or straight off your window brand.

A failed sliding-door roller is the repair that becomes a whole-day project if you order the wrong part. Rollers and carriages were never standardised in Australia — every window brand ran its own carriage body, and most changed it at least once. This guide gets you to the right one in three steps: work out whether you need the whole carriage or just the wheel, pick your door type, then confirm against your window brand.

Jump to your job

Start here: the whole carriage, or just the wheel?

This decides everything else, and it is the one most people get wrong. Pull the door off and look at the part underneath.

1. External patio & sliding door carriages

Glazed aluminium sliders — the heaviest domestic doors and the ones that fail most. These are almost always brand-specific, so check the brand table if you know the maker. Rated 15–40 kg for standard domestic panels; go to heavy duty for oversized or double-glazed panels.

The rest of the patio range

Two-pack carriages are also stocked for Bradnams® 11 mm, Rylock® & Lidco® 13 mm, Boral® & KM™ 17 mm and Vision™ & Stegbar® 12 mm.

2. Wardrobe, robe & internal door rollers

Bottom-rolling robe and cupboard doors. Light duty (8–25 kg), inexpensive, and almost always bought in packs — a four-door robe needs eight wheels. The only thing you must get right is concave vs convex. Use the track test above.

Concave wheel — pricing tiers

Convex wheel — pricing tiers

Adjustable wardrobe carriages — when the housing has gone too

3. Cavity sliders & top-hung trolleys

Doors that hang from a track above rather than rolling on the floor — cavity sliders, barn-style internal doors and top-hung robes. The running gear is a trolley (two wheels in a steel body) rather than a carriage, and you always replace them in pairs. If the door drags at the bottom, check the floor guide too — it is usually the actual culprit.

4. Screen & security door rollers

Flyscreen and security screen sliders run on a light top or bottom track and use either a corner stake (a wheel on a stem that slots into the corner of the frame) or a small adjustable carriage. If the door drags, the bottom guide block is worn as often as the wheel — replace both while the door is off.

Universal security screen wheel — pricing tiers

The wheel that fits the great majority of Australian sliding security screens. Pick your pack size — the per-wheel price drops sharply at 20 and above.

Corner stakes, carriages, hangers & guides

Heavier security screens: 32 mm concave 25 kg ($15.16), 32 mm heavy duty nylon 35 kg ($15.16) and 32 mm stainless 35 kg ($24.99) for coastal installs.

5. Replacement wheels only — the full chart

If the carriage body is sound, buy the wheel on its own. Measure the outside diameter of the old wheel across the widest point, check the profile against the track, and note whether the axle is a screw through the middle or a threaded stud the wheel spins on.

6. Heavy duty, timber & commercial

Above about 40 kg the format changes: instead of a single carriage you fit a roller assembly — two wheels (tandem) or four (quad) on a bogie plate that spreads the load across the track. Solid-core timber doors, barn doors, oversized double-glazed panels, shopfronts and commercial sliders all land here. Always fit assemblies in matched pairs and check the track is rated for the load before you go up a size.

Tandem & quad roller assemblies

Timber, commercial & shed door carriages

7. Window carriages & shower screen hardware

Sliding aluminium windows use the same idea at a smaller scale, and double-hung timber sashes run on a brass roller and pulley. Shower screens are grouped here because the running gear and blocks are the same family of parts.

8. Guides, blocks, clips & the parts people forget

Half the “my new rollers didn’t fix it” emails come down to a worn floor guide, a missing retaining clip or a chewed-out guide block. They are a few dollars each and the door is already off — do them at the same time.

Find your roller by window brand

If you can read a brand off the door, the frame sticker or the original invoice, start here. Where a brand ran more than one carriage over the years the series is named — check yours against the photos on the product page before ordering.

Common scenarios

Measuring and fitting

Before you order, get three numbers off the old part: wheel diameter across the widest point, carriage body length nose to tail, and screw hole centres. Photograph the part next to a tape measure — that one photo answers almost every compatibility question we get.

Fitting a patio-door carriage takes 20–30 minutes per door. Lift the door off the track (always two people on a glazed panel), unscrew the carriage from the door bottom, drop the new one into the same screw holes, wind the adjuster so the wheel clears the bottom of the frame, and re-fit. Cavity sliders work the same way but the door comes down from above, so allow more time. Screen-door wheels and corner stakes are a five-minute swap — lift the door, press the old wheel out, click the new one in. Heavy tandem and quad assemblies are a two-person job and the track should be checked for wear and flatness before the door goes back on. Vacuum the track out and wipe it down every time; grit left in the track is what killed the last set.

Still not sure?

Take a photo of the old roller or carriage from underneath the door, plus one of the track it runs on, and email both to sales@tradebaseaustralia.com.au. We’ll match you to the right TradeBase replacement in one reply — usually inside an hour during Australian business hours. Or browse the full rollers and carriages range.